Shaping Success

Shaping Success

By Sarah Fulcher, CDBC

 

Free shape—or not?

Free shaping is a type of animal training where you teach the behaviours in gradual steps using a marker, like a clicker, and rewards. Shaping can be a great way to teach some difficult behaviours, expand your animal’s capabilities, exercise your animal’s brain, and build your chops as a trainer. There has been a recent trend pushing toward free shaping as much as possible. While it is a powerful training tool, it can also be frustrating for the learner if the shaping is done poorly. Free shaping is sometimes not the most effective training option.

 

Timing

If you want to be successful building behaviours with shaping, you will need to have good timing. There are lots of games you can play to practice timing with a clicker. Try bouncing a ball and clicking every time it hits the ground. Or, while watching TV, take a few minutes and click every time the camera angle changes. If you don’t have good timing, you’re not going to be able to click your target’s behaviour, and you might end up shaping some pretty bizarre actions.

 

Plan ahead

Before beginning shaping sessions you should have a plan of what the probable steps of the behaviour should look like. Start with something the dog can and likely will do easily, and build up in logical steps to the finished behaviour. For example, if I wanted to train my dog to bow, my steps might look something like:

  1. Dip the head in a standing position
  2.  Head halfway to the floor
  3.  Nose close to touching the floor
  4.  Elbows bent
  5.  Elbows touching floor, rear in the air—a bow!

 

Establishing criteria and reinforcement rate

A common misconception about free shaping is that there is a lack of information provided to the learner. The truth is that if you are free shaping well, you will provide plenty of feedback to the animal. Your goal should be about 15 clicks a minute—that is feedback an average of every 4 seconds. With that rate of feedback and reinforcement, your dog should be having lots of success, understanding what you are looking for, and working eagerly for you. If you notice your dog getting frustrated, then you are probably asking too much and need to adjust your criteria.

When you are getting the 15 clicks a minute consistently after a few training sessions, then it is time to wait the dog out before offering the next step of your shaping plan. Keep your training sessions short, only a minute or two in length, and track how many treats you go through so you know what your rate of reinforcement is. Count out a certain number of treats before the session, and count what was left afterward to know how many clicks per minute you logged.

 

Cues to communicate

Another objection to free shaping is that it causes dogs to be frantic and to offer behaviours continually. While this definitely can happen, I don’t feel it is the fault of free shaping itself. I believe that dogs get this way because their trainers do not add cues early enough. It’s commonly accepted in the clicker training world that you do not add a cue until the behaviour is perfect. However, this gives the animal plenty of rehearsals of the behaviour without a cue attached. The more times the dog does the behaviour without being cued, and gets reinforced for it, the more likely it will be that the dog will offer that behaviour when it hasn’t been asked (cued) to do so.

So, when do you add a cue? As early as possible! When you can predict with relative certainty that the dog will do some form of the behaviour, start attaching a cue. Once you add a cue, do not reinforce un-cued responses afterwards. You can always change your cue once you get the behaviour exactly where you want it so your final cue is not attached to the imperfections associated with training.

Provided that your dog has a good understanding of the concept of cues and you are diligent about getting behaviours on stimulus control, this practice will help avoid frantic offering of behaviour. Your dog will know the difference between when it is time to experiment (shaping) and when to perform a specific behaviour when asked. Another trick I really like to do that seems to help dogs have a “shaping off-switch” is to use “game on” and “game off” signals to indicate when we are going to start shaping and when we are done. I will use “are you ready?” to mean we are going to start training and “all done” to tell the dog our session is over.

 

Reward placement

One of the single most important efforts that can speed up your shaping sessions (and training in general) is utilizing the placement of rewards. For example, you can deliver your reinforcement in a physical location that will jump-start your dog to offer the next repetition. Reward placement comes down to planning, but also to thinking on your feet. Where do you want the dog to be positioned to set up for the next rep? If you want the dog to stay in position, deliver the food directly to the dog. If, for example, you are trying to train a dog to go around an object, click for just moving beside it and toss the food so that the dog has to move even further around it. Instead of having the dog return to you to get the food, jump-start the behaviour of moving around the object by using your food reward placement to get the dog there. If you want to set the dog up to repeat an action, go to a platform, for example, toss the food away after you click so that the dog moves off and has the opportunity to return to the platform.

Many people think that they have to be extremely sterile during clicker training, and during shaping in general. Not true! Put some heart into it! If you are engaging, your dog is going to enjoy the process so much more. Training should be a game that both of you enjoy. While you should remain quiet before you click, there is no reason why you cannot praise the heck out of your dog after a click, for a big breakthrough, or at the end of a session. Relax, have fun!

 

Shaping—just one tool

While shaping can be a really cool way to teach some behaviours, it is not always the most efficient or effective way to train a skill. This is why shaping is not something I use to train all the time; I use shaping if I cannot get the behaviour easily in another manner, or if I want to challenge myself and my dog. To avoid frustration and make training go smoother, I suggest that you pick a method that will get the behaviour started as quickly as possible. Often, this choice will not be shaping. Utilizing prompts such as targets, setting up the environment, or even just capturing may be much faster means of training. You can even mix a combination of targeting, shaping, etc— whatever works best to explain to the animal what you are looking for.

One wonderful benefit of shaping is that there are no prompts to fade, since the training process is based completely on the dog offering behaviours. If you are going to use a prompt, it is important that you do not use it more than is necessary. For example, if the animal will do the behaviour naturally, you don’t need to set up the environment. If you can set up the training area to get the behaviour easily, try not to use targets. If you can get the job done with targets, avoid using a lure. The less you prompt, the less you have to fade. Remember, if you are using a prompt, you want to fade it as quickly as possible to avoid the animal’s reliance on it. Get the prompt out of the picture as quickly as you can.

Some dogs will prefer shaping more than others. If one of you, you or your dog, does not really like shaping, that’s just fine. There are plenty of other training tools to teach your dog to perform many wonderful tricks and behaviours. My 5-year-old Belgian shepherd, Dexter, loves to shape and is really fun to work with. I will do shaping with him often, just because he is so enjoyable to train this way. In contrast, my young Australian shepherd, Brew, finds shaping a frustrating process. For Brew, I limit the amount of shaping I do and try to use other methods to prompt behaviours with him. I do work on shaping with him occasionally, as it is good practice for him to think and use his brain in that way. Sometimes shaping really is the best way to accomplish my goals.

 

A useful technique

Shaping is often misunderstood and can be difficult to do well. But if you have well-developed timing and planning skills, with some practice it can be a helpful addition to your toolkit—especially as there are some behaviors you can shape that are very difficult to train in another manner. Overall, shaping is an excellent way to enhance your skills as a trainer and exercise your dog mentally.

Happy training!

 

Originally published on clickertraining.com

10 Reasons Your Dog May Develop Behaviour Problems

10 REASONS YOUR DOG MAY DEVELOP BEHAVIOUR PROBLEMS

By Sarah Fulcher, CDBC, KPA-CTP

Originally published on Clickertraining.com

Bad behavior: the big picture

Happy New Year! Did a new dog join the family this holiday season? Are you aiming to start a brand-new year with fine habits and manageable goals? Is this the time to tackle your dog’s problem behaviors, the ones that have had you perplexed?

A solid foundation in positive training gets you off to great start, either with that new puppy or with your older dog. But training has to be more than just a foundation, especially if there are any undesirable canine behaviors on the scene. Consider the whole picture when it comes to behavior problems, and review the most common reasons a dog “behaves badly.” Understanding the common explanations for behavior problems is the first step in solving and preventing those problems.

Reason #1: Not Enough Exercise

Dogs need physical exercise to be happy, and on-leash walks around the block are not usually sufficient. Activities like off-leash runs, running with you on a Walky Dog or Springer bike leash, fetch games, a pole toy like a Chase-It, or dog-dog play/daycare for social dogs are more appropriate exercise choices.

Reason #2: Not Enough Mental Stimulation

Mentally stimulating puzzle toys help eliminate boredom and keep dogs out of mischief.

Often-forgotten mental stimulation is essential for a well-balanced dog. Mental exercise can be just as tiring as physical; someone who works at a desk job can be as tired at the end of the day as a landscaper. Utilizing your dog’s daily rations for food-enrichment activities or for a bit of training as often as you can will go a long way toward tiring your dog mentally. Something as simple as hiding your dog’s meal or spreading the food in the yard can be an enrichment activity. Dogs love to forage or work for their meals.

Reason #3: Health Problems

Health problems cause behavior issues more often than people realize; health issues are often missed. Think about it—if you are not feeling well, you are probably going to be cranky or not yourself. Your dog is the same way, except a dog does not have words to tell you. Health issues that can change your dog’s behavior include arthritis, hip dysplasia, luxating patellas, sore teeth, thyroid problems, epilepsy/seizures, ear infections, digestive issues, skin or environmental allergies, yeast infections, hearing loss, eyesight loss, and cancer. If aggression or another behavior issue shows up suddenly, contact your vet. There is a good chance one of the above health complaints, or something related, could be causing your canine to be cranky.

Reason #4: Genetic Issues

Sometimes behavior issues have genetic causes. Behaviors that range from aggression to hyperactivity can come down to what your dog inherited from its parents. If you are buying a puppy, it is imperative to find out if the parents have positive temperaments. If they do not, the chance of your puppy having a poor temperament is very high. Sometimes, with very good socialization, you can override poor genetics, but often even with the best socialization program there are behavior issues if your dog has lost the gene pool lottery. Genetic issues tend to show up very young and are difficult to treat with behavior modification.

Reason #5: Inconsistent Environment

If you sometimes let your dog jump on you because you’re wearing casual clothes, but at other times punish him jumping, how fair is this to your dog? Dogs do not know the difference in clothing! This pattern, or lack of pattern, is very confusing for them and can cause anxiety. It reinforces jumping or any other behavior you are rewarding inconsistently. If you want your dog not to do something, be consistent by making that clear to him in a kind manner. If your dog jumps, for example, take time to practice sitting with positivereinforcement (providing something your dog likes such as treats or play immediately after the behavior) and ignore your dog completely if he jumps. Ignoring your dog means no talking, touching, or eye contact, as all are forms of attention and can reinforce behavior you don’t like. Cross your arms, turn your back, and ignore your dog until all four paws are on the floor.

If your dog has a behavior problem, look to yourself—how do you respond? There is an excellent chance you have been reinforcing the behavior with attention, and may have actually trained your dog to perform that behavior! Another example of a reinforced bad behavior is barking. Dog barks, you yell, dog thinks you are barking along—look at the attention I got! Dog barks more, you scold more, dog barks more, and on and on it goes.

Having a consistent set of boundaries and consistent rules in your house helps your dog understand that the environment is predictable. It also shows your dog that you provide guidance, leadership, and access to all the good stuff. Take the time to teach your dog rules using patience and positive reinforcement. Teaching your dog not to jump up, or training to eliminate any undesirable behavior, takes patience, consistency, and knowing what to ignore and what to reward.

Reason #6: Misunderstanding the “Normal” Dog Behavior

Barking is a natural behavior for some breeds.

Normal dogs bark, pull on leash, eat poop, roll in dead things, jump up to greet, guard food and bones (to a degree), growl when they are threatened, chew whatever they can get their mouths on, pee and poop wherever, nip, protect property or their family, herd, chase small animals, and sometimes kill small animals. All of these “nuisance” behaviors are perfectly natural parts of a dog’s repertoire, and vary depending on breed. Find a dog breed that is compatible with your lifestyle. It’s simply unfair to get a mastiff and be shocked when he barks at strangers approaching your home. These dogs have been bred for thousands of years to be guard dogs. Siberian huskies and northern breeds may not be reliable off leash and may kill small animals. Border collies might herd your children. Daschunds are known to bark a lot. These traits are due to selective breeding to perform a job or to natural canine behavior. Sometimes you can train an alternative behavior, and sometimes you cannot. It depends on how genetically hardwired the behavior is.

Reason #7: Changes in Routine

Changing the routine can be stressful for your dog, and may cause your dog to act out. Just like us, dogs need a sense of security. Drastic changes in environment or routine can really throw them off, causing anxiety that is commonly expressed as problem behavior. Moving to a new house often causes a lapse in house training, among other issues. A change in work schedule can confuse your dog, and a new pet or child joining the family can also be very stressful. In all of these cases, be patient with your dog and guide him through the struggle with kindness while he adjusts to the changes.

Reason #8: Changes in Diet

Switching your dog to a poorer quality or less suitable diet may also cause him to act up. Diet has a huge influence on behavior (going back to health influencing behavior). Switching your dog’s diet to something that is of poor quality or that doesn’t agree with him may change how the dog acts. Always feed your dog a high-quality diet, and change foods gradually over a week or so.

Reason #9: Poor Socialization or Negative Socialization

Proper socialization lays a foundation for a well-balanced dog.

Socialization is the process of providing your puppy positive, controlled exposure to other dogs, people of all types, sounds, surfaces, and new experiences. Dogs need to be socialized to the human world starting as young puppies and continuing throughout their lives. The period from 3-16 weeks of age is the most critical socialization period. This time lays a foundation for a well-balanced dog. If a puppy doesn’t get proper socialization during its critical period, it can grow up into a shy, fearful, or aggressive adult. A well-run puppy class can be a fun way to kick-start your dog’s socialization skills.

Even a dog that has been well socialized can develop behavior problems after negative experiences. Being attacked by other dogs or teased by children when out in the yard are occurrences that can affect your dog’s behavior negatively. A poor experience at the vet, training class, or groomer can do the same. Be selective about where you take your dog to socialize and which professionals you trust to handle your dog. I would also advise against leaving your dog alone in the yard when you are not at home, as you never know what could happen.

Reason #10: Fear Periods or Adolescence

If your normally fearless puppy suddenly turns shy one day, don’t panic. It is normal for puppies to go through several fear periods as their brains develop. The first generally occurs somewhere around 8-12 weeks of age and another period occurs around 5 or 6 months of age. Depending on the breed and bloodlines of your dog, your dog may experience more or fewer fear periods. Do not panic; just let your puppy go through this phase. You may want to avoid going to the vet, training class, groomer, or new places for a week until your puppy is back to his normal behavior. If during a fear period something frightens your dog, it imprints very strongly. So, rather than trying to work through a fear period, it might be best just to let it pass.

Adolescence starts at about 6 months of age and usually continues to 12 to 18 months of age. Adolescence is when most dogs are turned over to shelters. This is a period when puppies start testing their world and their boundaries. A previously “good” dog may become a nightmare. Continued obedience training, maintaining structure and boundaries, patience, and skilled management are all essential practices during this phase. Management means setting up the environment so that the dog doesn’t get a chance to do “naughty” things, and includes techniques like crating the dog when you cannot supervise directly.

Target to change

Understanding common potential causes of problem behavior in dogs can make it easier to sort out what is happening with your own challenging canine. Eliminate each of the various origins of change, if possible narrowing down to a trigger for the undesirable behavior your pet is exhibiting. With more detailed information, you will have a better chance of eliminating the frustrating behavior quickly. Of course, if your dog’s behavior problems are severe, look for a reputable trainer to help you.

 

Originally published on clickertraining.com

When Pain Doesn’t Look Like Pain

 

My dog Dexter has been slightly anxious for several months. I had thought it was possibly due to me being away more frequently.

We had been giving him some calming treats with supplements that seemed to help. I had the vet check him out and did some basic blood work which looked normal.

My plan was to see if he improved once my seminar circuit was finished for the year and to start up his chiropractic treatments again as soon as I could. He’s been dealing with a soft tissue injury since the Spring and the chiropractor helped a lot with that.

However, recently his anxiety has increased. He has been reluctant to respond to basic cues like sit and down but still fine with recall and attention, which is very unlike him.

I attended a seminar this weekend and he is usually very calm and comfortable in this environment but seemed on edge the whole weekend, even in the hotel room. He refused to sit especially quite frequently – again very unusual. I thought at that point perhaps he was sore. Even in the hotel he seemed on edge and having a hard time settling, not listening as well etc.

He was especially bad in the car, panting the whole time when he normally settles and travels well. The whole 5 to 6 hour drive home today he hardly settled.

After chatting with my wise friend Kristy Gibson about how he was on the drive home and his continued odd behaviour since we got back, I gave him some medication I had on hand (prescribed for my other dog, never give your dog any medication without speaking to your vet) at her suggestion. He pretty much passed out within 20 minutes which tells us he was likely sore and keyed up because of it – now that the pain is gone he is finally able to rest and is crashing.

I will be looking into a better pain management system for him but I wanted to share this as it is a great example of when physical pain can manifest in subtle behavioural signs. Because I know my dog well I can pick this up and move forward.

Podcast Feature

I was thrilled while on a recent trip to Chicago to be featured on the Dog Training Conversations Podcast with my friends Chad Mackin and Jay Jack.

Feel free to listen to the Podcast (episode Bridging the Gap) here or here for non-Apple users.

I was in Chicago to visit friends and do some learning with Chad Mackin while we planned our seminar together. The seminar is November 7 & 8 in Tucson, AZ and is titled “Bridging the Gap: Building Lasting Relationships with Clients, Colleagues, and Canine Companions”. For info or to register please see the host’s website.